Wonjo Nude Cheese Gimbap 원조누드치즈김밥

Through West Gate 2 of Gwangjang Market, the first covered cart in the row belongs to this gimbap stall, though the map pin sits elsewhere and trips up first-timers. The nude cheese gimbap is plain inside, just ham, pickled radish, imitation crab and cheese, with a generous layer of tuna on the warm rice outside, and it relies on the soy-pickled chilies heaped on top to come alive. Japchae gimbap adds a hefty portion of glass noodle stir-fry, and the set with two fish cakes comes with free refills of the fish cake broth. Seating at the stall is roomier than it looks, and the grandmother who runs it looks after foreign visitors with care. Sunday afternoons bring long lines, and when the japchae runs out the wait stretches while a new batch is cooked. Filming videos is not allowed.