Wangseong Sikdang 왕성식당

Salted oyster jeotgal, an oversized rolled omelet and stir-fried anchovies are good enough on their own to get through a bowl of rice. The kimchi-jjigae simmers long-aged kimchi with meat, sour and peppery, and the gopchang-jeongol carries plenty of marrow-filled intestine, its broth deepening as it cooks. Seasoning runs salty across the board, and the omelet is what breaks it up. Lunch usually means a wait, and booking ahead makes it easier.