Usijang Gukbap 우시장국밥

Three wood-fired cauldrons burn beside the building, simmering pork bones together with pollack, so the milky broth carries a fish savoriness most pork gukbap lacks. Despite the name, which means cattle market, this is a pork soup house: modeum gukbap holds glass-noodle sundae, head meat and offal. The offal is tender with no gamey smell. Bowls arrive with rice already in the soup unless you ask for ttaro gukbap, rice on the side. Seats are found by the numbers written on the ceiling. Try the first spoonfuls before adding dadaegi chili paste, then add seasoned chives from the self-service bar.