Twigim Ajeossi 튀김아저씨

Nothing sits waiting under a lamp: each batch is fried after ordering, in a thin, seasoned, tempura-style batter that needs no dipping sauce. Squid tempura is the standout, springy inside a crackly shell, and it is best eaten in the shop because a takeout box turns it soggy. The single-person set runs small, and adding an assorted fritter portion fills it out. The soup-style tteokbokki, made with wheat rice cakes and cabbage, starts sweet but leaves a long cheongyang chili burn. The udon, in a clear anchovy and bonito broth in the old gakki-udon style, cools things down. Late-evening visitors may miss the sundae, which often sells out early. Inside the Eunma shopping arcade, the arcade's parking is easier than transit, and lines grow long at busy times.