Shunsai Kubo Hwamyeong 슌사이쿠보 화명점

Blinds between tables keep neighbors out of sight, though their voices still carry. Hitsumabushi comes with a choice of freshwater eel, richer and fattier, or sea eel, which is lighter; either is grilled golden and evenly seasoned. Salad and tempura with lotus-root chips arrive first, the last of the rice becomes ochazuke with the ingredients provided, and pudding ends the meal, so it runs almost like a course. There is also torimabushi with chicken and a minced-cutlet set for children. The restaurant earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand two years running; walk-ins sometimes wait more than 50 minutes, and bookings are taken through Naver and Catch Table.