Ryeo 려

Lunch opens with chawanmushi and three sashimi starters, then 12 pieces of sushi, Spanish mackerel marinated in yuzu soy and grilled, warm noodles, and green tea ice cream. Wild red sea bream and an uni gimmari, sea urchin rolled in seaweed, carry the sushi run. With that many plates, the course ends on a very full stomach. Prices sit below Seoul's high-end omakase counters, and diners pick between bar seats facing the chef and partitioned tables, which see family birthdays and anniversaries. A sake pairing runs with the meal, and the chef will even explain how to warm sake. Courses arrive quickly, so asking the chef to slow the pace makes for a calmer meal.