Nirvana 니르바나

From the second-floor window seats at the entrance to Insadong-gil, the terrace-like tables look down on the pedestrian street. The Indian owner speaks fluent Korean and walks first-timers through the menu. Curries are thick and heavily spiced, enough to eat with a spoon even without rice or naan. Lamb curry comes with peppers and vegetables and a bold heat, while palak paneer folds cheese into a spinach sauce that is richer and oilier than many expect. Naan is offered in honey, butter, cheese and garlic, and the garlic version suits the smoky tandoori chicken. The restaurant is halal-certified.