Mandu Jeonppang 만두전빵

In the dumpling hot pot (mandu jeongol), the beef shank and hand-made dumplings arrive already cooked; once the pot boils, lift out the shank first and dip it in scallion soy sauce. The dumplings have thin, chewy skins, and even the kimchi ones taste clean rather than sour. Garlic and other aromatics are strained out of the clear broth, which gets its bite from Cheongyang chili. Holding the extra spicy paste until about halfway through lets you taste both versions, and knife-cut noodles finish the pot. Mung bean pancake (nokdujeon) is crisp outside and fluffy inside, served with pickled onion. The hall has only 14 seats, so waits are long; the waiting list is a board inside, not the line at the door.