Hwangnam Dukkebi 황남두꺼비

Under the eaves of a hanok on Hwangnidan-gil, mukeunji deunggalbi-jjim, pork back ribs braised with aged kimchi, falls off the bone, and the whole-leaf kimchi turns soft while keeping a little crunch. Pick spicy, regular or soy-based sauce, and pile the meat and kimchi onto gondeure rice, made with a mountain green. There is also Cheomseongdae tteokgalbi, a grilled patty shaped like Gyeongju's ancient observatory, and a thin, chewy buckwheat pancake. Dogs are welcome, and reservations are taken.