Hoeyeongru 회영루

Nearly every table has a bowl of junghwa naengmyeon, cold noodles in a sweet-sour peanut broth with finely chopped hot chili that keeps it from feeling heavy. Baengnyeon jajang tops its noodles with big pieces of pork in an earthy sauce that tastes like chunjang mixed with doenjang, and you stir in as much minced raw garlic as you like. An ethnic Chinese family has run the place since 1974.