Godeung Banjeom 고등반점

Gan-jjajang arrives with a thick, onion-heavy black bean sauce and a few strips of cucumber on top, and it stays gentle rather than punchy. Unless you say otherwise, tangsuyuk comes with its clear sauce poured on, and that sauce is quite sweet; mention it when ordering if you want it on the side. Gul-jjamppong, a seasonal noodle soup, has a white broth with plenty of oysters. Ulmyeon is mild to the point of bland, and salty gochu-japchae, stir-fried peppers, makes a good partner for it. Three generations have run the place over 50 years, and it has several private rooms; weekend rooms need booking well ahead.