Geosong Galbijjim 거송갈비찜

With only about ten tables, this shop in Yakjeon Golmok, Daegu's herbal-medicine alley, has you write your name on a waiting list and wait outside. The galbijjim is bone-in pork spare ribs braised in a red sauce heavy with minced garlic, and the heat runs from soy-based and mild through numbered spicy levels to mala. Even the standard level is about as hot as Shin Ramyun. Two napjak mandu, thin flat dumplings, come on the side for wrapping rib meat and scallion, and rice, seaweed, perilla leaves and pickled radish are self-serve. Cutting the bones with scissors tends to splash sauce.