Daehwa Sikdang 대화식당

Sit down, say how many are eating, and a boribap set arrives; the only question is whether you want barley rice alone or mixed with white rice. Payment is cash only. Bean sprouts, young radish kimchi and seasoned greens go into a big bowl with sesame oil and gochujang, with a plump grilled mackerel and doenjang stew alongside. The shop sits deep in the lanes of Jukdo Market and takes a little finding the first time.