Daegwanwon 대관원

The gan-jjajang sauce is so thick it barely mixes into the noodles, and the sweetness is pulled back so the roasted chunjang black-bean paste leads. Leftover sauce goes well over a spoonful of rice. Samseon gan-jjajang adds only a little seafood, and jjamppong comes only in the seafood samseon version. Tangsuyuk, crisp sweet-and-sour pork, along with palbochae, crab-meat samseul and nanjawanseu meatballs, makes this a reasonable spot for drinks. Fried rice is served with egg soup instead of jjamppong broth. The second-floor hall is small but has private rooms, and lines form on weekday evenings and weekends.