Ttangko Chamsut Gui 땅코참숯구이

Round tables crowd a corner of Haengdang Market in Wangsimni, each set over a charcoal brazier for pork neck. The house grill plate keeps smoke down and gives the meat a springy surface, while servers turn and cut every piece. Moksal is the juiciest cut; samgyeopsal leans on fat, and galmaegisal, the pork skirt, on chew. Switching between salt, fresh wasabi and jeotgal (salted seafood) from one bite to the next makes those differences clearer. Jeontu ramyeon, spicy instant noodles with bean sprouts and seafood, closes the meal in the opposite direction from cold naengmyeon.