Seoul Keunip-tang 서울큰입탕

Fresh cod goes into every soup and braise at this long-running place in the alley behind the Garden Hotel near Mapo Station. Saeng-daegu-tang comes as a spicy, clean-finishing maeuntang or a clear jiri, with plump, springy cod in a pot deeper than it looks. Daegu-ppol-jjim braises tender cod cheeks in a restrained chili sauce that goes well with soju. Leave some bean sprouts from the braise and ask for fried rice, which arrives topped with an egg. Seating is roomy for groups, and since there is no private parking, drivers use the public lot near Mapo Station.