Seolseong Sikdang 설성식당

After taking a number and waiting, diners sit on the floor of a small room and the whole table is carried in. Rooms are cramped enough that strangers sometimes share one. Yeontan bulgogi, spicy pork grilled over coal briquettes, sits in the middle of some 30 Jeolla-style side dishes, among them marinated raw crab, fermented skate and dried yellow croaker, and refills are requested by intercom. Weekend waits of 40 minutes to an hour are common, and people who have eaten here disagree about whether the meal is worth that. Every restaurant on the surrounding street grills the same briquette bulgogi, a local dish traced to a Joseon-era garrison commander who served pork to his uncle, the Gangjin magistrate.