Oneul Bakery 오늘제빵소

It sits at the foot of Bukhansan, but this is not a cafe with a view of the peaks. What it has instead are two artificial waterfalls in the yard, so you sit with running water and trees close by. The main building looks like an old stone-walled farmhouse and holds a gallery-like room hung with paintings; in autumn the benches under the turning leaves fill up, and in the cold the seats are by a bonfire. The counter is in a different building from the seating, so expect to carry your bread and drinks across. The Bambamba latte is quite sweet.