Odong Chuya 오동추야

The waiting room is stocked with free coffee, ice cream and puffed rice crackers, eaten while you wait and grabbed again on the way out. For 30 years the restaurant has served pork galbi alongside Hamheung-style cold noodles, and the marinated ribs carry a gentle heat. Side dishes come close to a full set meal: marinated crab, beef tartare, beef pancakes, acorn jelly and tofu, with everything except the crab, pancakes and tartare refilled. When the room is quiet, staff grill the meat for you. Noodles after the meat come either spicy bibim or mild in cold broth.