Obyeongieo 오병이어

Up on the second floor of a building on Worldcup-ro in Seogwipo, the sign is easy to miss, but inside the room feels like a cozy home. Rather than a single spread, the meal starts with an appetizer before the main dish arrives. The wild-caught grilled fish platter changes with what the waters off Jeju yield each season, and galchi siraegi jorim braises Jeju silver hairtail with dried radish greens into something sweet and savory. Side dishes and soup come with it. When the day's ingredients run out, the kitchen shuts early.