Hwanghaedo (Kimchi Mandu Jeongol Jeonmun) 황해도 (김치만두전골전문점)

The kimchi dumplings that staff fold in a corner of the dining room go straight into an anchovy-broth hot pot, simmering alongside chewy kalguksu noodles. The broth is clear and gentle. Portions run large: three people who order three servings struggle to get through the perilla-oil fried rice at the end, and for a group of three, two servings plus the fried rice is about right. Every table cooks over its own burner in a small room, and in summer it stays hot even with the air conditioning running.