Kikku 기꾸

Abalone simmered for three hours turns silky-soft, and the sushi omakase also works in scallop topped with shiso, monkfish liver and fugu shirako (pufferfish milt) with a cheese-like texture. Chef Kim Tae-won shapes each piece at the counter from wild-caught seafood, keeping the rice portions small so the long course stays manageable. He keeps up easy conversation throughout, while a second chef beside him quietly refills the side dishes. Tell him which fish or textures you like, and he may score a piece differently or add an extra one. With only bar seating, reservations are essential, ideally about a week ahead. Birthdays and anniversaries make up much of the clientele.