Choe Ppyeodagu Haejangguk 최뼈다구해장국 분점

Bowls of ppyeo-haejangguk, pork-backbone soup, arrive with a side of thin somyeon noodles. Strip the meat off the stack of bones first and it goes down with the noodles in the peppery broth; rice goes in last. There are about three chunks of bone: the neck pieces are tender, the back pieces a little dry. Gamjatang uses the same broth with potatoes and vegetables and ends as fried rice. Afterward, a cup of warm, sweet milk from the vending machine clears the palate.