Wonjo Sunhuine Bindaetteok 원조순희네빈대떡

Near the entrance of Gwangjang Market, batter from a towering pile is dropped into plenty of hot oil and half-fried to order. The nokdu bindaetteok (mung bean pancake) comes out crisp at the edges with a moist, grainy center, while gogi wanja, pan-fried meatballs, add chew and meatiness. A mixed platter puts both on one plate for comparison. They soak up oil as they sit, so they are best eaten right away rather than taken home. Makgeolli is the usual partner, with tteokbokki, gimbap or spicy-sour whelk noodles filling out the table. The hall is roomier than neighboring stalls but chairs are tight and the market noise pours in; tables clear fast, and mobile Onnuri gift vouchers are accepted.