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There are two soups, potato and tomato chicken. The potato one can taste flat at first, then the nutty potato and truffle come forward as it cools a little; the tomato chicken soup is built on stock from a whole Jeju chicken and carries a gentle heat. The stew is not French at all, spiced somewhere between Eastern Europe and West Asia, and it keeps you reaching for the baguette served alongside. That baguette, crisp outside and moist inside, also goes into the sandwiches and tartines. The small room in Hado-ri is filled with French country-house props and French music, and several dishes are vegan.