Kimssine Simya Sikdang 김씨네심야식당

Instead of chashu, the abura soba (brothless oil noodles) here is topped with spicy stir-fried pork, and a bowl of seaweed soup comes on the side. Bean sprouts and cilantro are optional add-ons. Crisp karaage is the usual partner, with shrimp abura soba, chicken nanban and a pork teriyaki set as alternatives. A daily special and a croquette whose filling rotates, crab cream one day and bacon another, give regulars something new. Portions are generous for the price, and fried squid is another reliable snack. The small, cozy izakaya near Sangsu Station opens only for dinner and fills soon after opening. Sake and draft beer are inexpensive.