Keunmaeul Yeongyang Gulbap 큰마을영양굴밥

Shoes come off at the door of this building on the Ganwoldo shore, and the windows look out on the sea and, late in the day, the sunset. The owner, a certified master cook, explains the ingredients and how to eat each dish as it arrives. The oyster rice comes with plump oysters piled on top, to be mixed with wild chive soy sauce, while the clam rice uses lightly dried clams that stay chewy and free of any fishy taste. The separately ordered spicy raw skate salad has Asian pear cut in thick pieces rather than shreds, so sweet bites turn up between the spicy ones. With the salad on the table, one rice fewer than the number of diners is enough.