Wonjo 18 Wandang 원조 18번 완당

The founder brought the dish back from Japan and opened in 1947, and the family still runs this single shop with no branches. Wandang skins are rolled to about 0.3 mm and hold just a dab of raw-meat filling before they float in broth; add noodles to the same bowl and it becomes wandang-myeon. There is also bal-guksu, chilled buckwheat noodles on a bamboo mat for dipping, and a warm version called onbal.