Oksu Kalguksu 옥수칼국수

The sign reads Oksu Sutbulgui, but people call it Oksu Kalguksu. Gochujang charcoal-grilled meat, cooked here since 1991, comes alongside hand-cut noodles, and after a few bites of the sweet, spicy, smoky meat, the substantial but not oily noodle broth calms things down. The hand-rolled noodles are springy and chewy.