Keunson Hamheung Naengmyeon 큰손함흥냉면

In the basement of the lawyers' association building on Saemunan-ro, sweet-potato-starch dough is kneaded by hand and pressed into noodles to order, thinner and much springier than Pyongyang-style noodles. Mul-naengmyeon sits in a clear, icy broth, bibim-naengmyeon is tossed in a sweet-sour chili sauce, and hoe-naengmyeon adds chewy marinated skate. A pot of warm meat broth stays on the table. Dumplings come in jumbo, seafood with webfoot and long-arm octopus, or kimchi versions, and naengmyeon-and-dumpling sets are available. For anyone who wants something hot, there are clear gomtang beef soup, neungi mushroom gomtang and earthenware-pot bulgogi. Orders go through a kiosk at the entrance, a short walk from Gwanghwamun Station and the Sejong Center.