Cafe Pyeonan 카페 편안

Up on a hillside road in Beomil-dong, the windows look out not at the sea but at rooftops packed tightly down the slope, and after dark the building and street lights take their place. The dessert is trdelnik, the Czech chimney cake: dough is wrapped around a cylinder and baked, leaving it hollow, and you tear off the crisp outer layers by hand.