Haeundae Giwajip Daegutang 해운대 기와집 대구탕

Clear, faintly milky broth fills a big stainless bowl along with thick bone-in cod, chunks of radish the size of a fist and plenty of green onion. The daegutang isn't spicy to begin with, so cod and radish lead; stir in the minced-chili paste for heat, or a splash of vinegar to sharpen it. Pick the cod off the bone and dip it in soy sauce with wasabi, or wrap it with rice in sheets of plain gim (laver). Cod soup is the only meal on the menu, served with rice, kimchi, seasoned greens, pickled onion and stir-fried fish cake. The name recalls the old tiled-roof house on Dalmaji-gil; the restaurant now occupies the second and third floors of a new building, with high ceilings, big windows and signatures from longtime visitors on the walls.