Donghae Banjeom 동해반점

An abacus still sits on the counter of this ethnic-Chinese restaurant, open in Daerim-dong since 1972, among old wooden furniture. Yangjangpi spreads seafood, sliced meat and vegetables in a ring around chewy starch sheets, all tossed with sharp mustard sauce that cuts the richness. The old-style tangsuyuk is sauced with a thin cabbage gravy, so some pieces stay crisp while others soften. Ganjajang brings black-bean sauce stir-fried separately with onion and poured over the noodles, and jjamppong-bap or japchae-bap come with fried rice instead of plain rice. Small tables and the counter fill the ground floor, with private rooms upstairs.