Chanyangjip 찬양집

Down a narrow lane between Jongno 3-ga Station and Ikseon-dong, a worn sign and a small doorway open onto a long row of tables. Haemul kalguksu, knife-cut noodles in seafood broth, combines noodles made fresh daily with clams, mussels, zucchini and scallions in a clear anchovy stock, nothing like the red, spicy versions. The wide, uneven strands soak up broth and still keep their bite. Picking out the shells first makes the noodles easier to eat, and crisp, spicy fresh kimchi (geotjeori) cuts against the mild soup. Dumplings are ordered separately, and their wrappers soften once dropped into the broth.