Bongpyeong Ongsimi Memil Kalguksu 봉평 옹심이 메밀칼국수

Grated potato and potato starch are rolled into the smooth, chewy dumplings at the center of this Eunpyeong noodle shop. In ongsimi memil kalguksu they share a hot, starch-thickened broth with buckwheat-blended noodles that break easily. The cold side of the menu centers on deulgireum makguksu: chilled buckwheat noodles tossed with perilla oil and seaweed flakes, no broth at all. Spicy pollock-sashimi noodles and a clear cold-broth version round it out. A small bowl of barley rice comes first for mixing with young-radish kimchi and shredded radish, and the thin buckwheat pancake arrives with pickled onion.